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EADA: Sean, as you're the Executive Chef, I'd like to find out about a few of your favorite menu items, and Chad, tell us about the wine you paired with them. Let's start with the ceviche.
SF: The ceviche is inherently difficult to pair because of its acidity. Ceviche easily goes well with cold beer on the beach, so when you want to enhance it for fine dining, the extra virgin olive oil adds to the flavoring and makes it much more savory. Also, seasoning with fresh camino and oregano gives it a meaty flavor that bifurcates from the crisp, marinated texture.
CP: I chose a semi-dry Riesling that is light with just a touch of sweetness that helps complement Sean's dish: 2003 Mülheimer Sonnenlay. This wine is a product of northeastern Germany and has a long growing time. I wanted to go with a German selection; straight to the source of great Rieslings. It is a solid wine, and the main reason you find it here is because of its perfect pairing with this dish.
EADA: What is your approach to the mesquite smoked duck breast?
SF: It is seared with the skin down to render the duck fat, which is amazingly rich. Before we sear it, it is cold-smoked with mesquite over an ice bath. We sear it to maintain the natural oils. The Le Mistral complements it.
CP: This is a 2002 Grenache/Syrah blend. The blend makes it smooth enough to work with the duck. It's the perfect amount of dark fruit and acidity to go right along with the blackberry honey of the duck. It's as if his dish was made just for the Le Mistral.
EADA: Our third pairing, the New Zealand Lamb. Give us an idea of how you prepare the green peppercorn sauce.
SF: In the sauce, you will find green peppercorns that are never dried. Most peppercorns you get are hard and dried. These are not. We reduce the brine on them, deglaze with brandy and add them to a brown butter that gives it an incredible richness. The peppercorns are earthy and rustic enough to pair with the distinct flavor of the lamb. The Yukon potatoes we use add a little bit of sweetness, the French green beans are in a red wine reduction, and the caramelized baby fennel has a nice rooty flavor to go with the woodiness of the green peppercorns. Of the non-seafood dishes on the menu, this is, hands-down, my favorite. Very much bistro cuisine.
CP: Yes, and screaming for the perfect wine. I've chosen the 2001 Cane Concept from the Napa Valley. It is a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend. The Cabernet brings in the fruit, and the Merlot touches it with that dark rich sweetness; not at all sugary. The Cab Franc adds the crisp finish to it. Every flavor in the dish is made to complement the lamb, and that's the purpose of this wine as well.
EADA: Do you find that people are becoming more familiar with blends?
CP: Absolutely. Ten years ago, the average person was not nearly as familiar with the blends, but now it's much different. I remember my first taste of a blend. Wow. It was a whole new world of complexities - and so much fun! That's what wine should be. Fun. It shouldn't be uptight. Basically, blends are everywhere, and wineries are seeing how accepting people are of new blends and how excited they get about them.
EADA: It sounds like the two of you make an excellent team for Zin.
SF: It works very well.
CP: Everything here is about the food, and my job is to always find a wine to complement the food. Not the other way around. Once you can capture the idea of the flavors and find a fabulous pairing, you have won. |
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