Do a little digging, though, and you'll unearth a wealth of casual dining choices in the heart of downtown.

Once the historic site of Austin's first topless bar, the lot at 8th and Congress had stood vacant since a mid-70s fire gutted the burlesque house. Opting to open something a little less risqué there, owner Fred Nelson cut the ribbon on a Souper Salad franchise - one of a planned empire - in 1983.

But he quickly realized the hard truth of the chain restaurant life: "You have to be cold-hearted, always watching the bottom line," he affirms. "That's not who I am." Selling off his other locations in 1987, he decided to keep this building, and work on turning it into a one-of-a-kind, distinctly Austin dining experience... and so Hickory Street Bar & Grille was born.

Over the past two decades, the restaurant has continued to evolve and grow. From a stroll around the outside it's hard to believe, but between the beautiful garden patio and the dining rooms cut into the hillside behind it, Hickory Street can accommodate more than 250 patrons. "It's been lovingly referred to as a 'clown car,'" Nelson chuckles. "It's deceptively large."

Once inside, though, there's hardly a sense that you're dining underground; the well-lit interior, crafted of wood, brick and glass, is comfortable and casual. The trees and flowers surrounding the outdoor seating area - where live music accompanies diners most nights - provide an oasis in the midst of downtown Austin's steely towers. Indoors or out, you get the sense that this is a place where you can truly relax, unwind, and - oh yeah - have a bite or two to eat.

As the name implies, Hickory Street sports both a bar - fully stocked and offering daily specials and giant margaritas - and a grill, which serves up tasty entrees like the Mushroom Pesto Chicken and the Rainbow Trout, as well as plump burgers and a variety of sandwiches. The unique offerings include such notables as the Buffalove Chicken Sandwich (a grilled breast with spicy wing sauce, banana peppers, and pepperjack cheese - opt for the Jalapeño Cheese bun to complete the ensemble) and Texas-style "Filly" cheesesteaks smothered in queso and promising "a huge mess."

When asked for his personal favorites amongst the menu's many options, Nelson deadpans, "Everything." Pressed to narrow his scope, he zeroes in on a Hamburger with hand-cut fries, and opts for the zesty Migas when pondering the extensive weekday breakfast menu. Weekends boast a New Orleans Brunch Buffet, replete with offerings like Crawfish Etoufee, Dirty Rice and Eggs Sardou. However, he says, "If you're looking for value for the money, you can't beat the Food Bars."

Arguably the stars of Hickory Street's show, the renowned Food Bars include a separate Salad Bar, Soup Stove, and Potato Bar, as well as the Bread Cupboard included with any meal. A mere $5.99 nets you the Combo, allowing all-you-care-to-eat trips to all of the bars, plus a visit to the Sundae Bar to indulge your sweet tooth. (Don't overlook the other dessert items on the menu, though... the Fried Cheese Cake and Goop-in-a-Goblet are almost meals unto themselves.)

Nelson - what the hell, call him "Uncle Fred" - does his best to keep Hickory Street easygoing, and goes out of his way to surround himself with creative, artistic and goal-oriented employees. There's a real sense of family to the place - and this family will welcome you in, make you comfortable... and never let you leave the table hungry.