by Jenny Miller

Don’t expect to walk into Habana Calle 6 and order an enchilada — or chips and salsa, or a breakfast taco, for that matter. Customers have frequently anticipated those foods and been surprised to find a whole menu of delicious, unfamiliar Cuban dishes. “When we first started, people didn’t know what Cuban food was,” says Ron Flores, who co-owns Habana’s two Austin locations with his wife Yasbel, who is herself Cuban. “Now, our following is almost cult-like.”

And it’s a cult whose Kool-Aid — or rather, daquiris and mojitos — is worth drinking. But we’ll get to the potables momentarily… let’s talk first about the food and what’s probably downtown’s biggest — and most appealing — outdoor patio. Tucked away behind the Sixth Street location’s long and narrow interior, the large, creekside patio seats 100 on a normal night and on Sunday evenings has been known to hold 200 salsa dancers and a live band. Mojito in hand, Cuban munchies on the table and lights strung overhead, there’s hardly a pleasanter place to spend a warm evening.

Atmosphere aside, the food alone warrants a visit. In the kitchen, several Cuban women preside over Yasbel’s family recipes, separating the beans, marinating meats overnight, and slow-simmering the specialties. “The stuff we have here is what you’d find on the island — as opposed to Miami Cuban food or New York Cuban food,” Flores explains. “And everything is done from scratch.”

Such laborious preparations produce delicious results. There’s Lechon Asado, Habana’s speciality: pork marinated overnight and slow roasted. Tender, moist and flavorful, it’s a treat by itself or with forkfuls of rice and beans. Ropa Vieja, shredded beef marinated and then slow-simmered in a tomato-based sauce, is another specialty. This very typical Cuban dish is satisfyingly chewy, with a rich flavor and slight spiciness that pairs perfectly with the Maduros, caramelized fried plantains, which accompany the entrée.

The sides at Habana are made up mainly of beans and a smorgasboard of starches. “Starch” is practically a dirty word in our culture, calling to mind bland potatoes and bread lacking much in the way of nutrients and heft. But in Cuban cuisine this food group makes up a large part of the diet, and is nutrient- and mineral-rich. As an appetizer or with an entrée, you’d do well to try the delicious Maduros or their cousin, Tostones, toothsome disks perfect for dipping in the garlic Mojo sauce that accompanies them. You might also sample the Yuca Frita, which look like chubby French fries but are loaded with vitamins, minerals and fiber.

The standout flavors of the food pair perfectly with the restaurant’s refreshing selection of cocktails. The mojitos are wonderful here — light and minty — but it’s the daiquiris that are sure to provide the evening’s surprise. As Flores says, “Daiquiris have become a foo-foo drink here, but in Cuba they’re as macho as the margaritas in Mexico.” A frozen mango daiquiri sounds like something I might consume a few bars down on Sixth Street, but when it arrives, it’s nothing like the sickly sweet strawberry concoctions I’ve had elsewhere. Mango-flavored rum is blended lightly with lime and sugar, producing a deliciously cold cocktail with just the right amount of sweetness.

At press time, Habana Calle 6’s sister location on South Congress was still closed and under construction after its Fall 2004 fire. Flores estimated that it would re-open this summer. Rather than rebuild, the Floreses decided to start over and create a larger space. The finished restaurant will be sherbet-colored, with deco accents and private bamboo cabanas — meant to bring to mind Miami’s South Beach. Within the next few years, the couple hopes to open a North Austin location near the lake. Don’t expect to find enchiladas there, either… just Habana’s signature brand of Cuban food and fun.