Although nowadays South Congress could hardly be considered out-of-town, I recently made the same pilgrimage myself, and I was glad I did. As you head south on Congress, pass by all the happening clothing stores and restaurants, and look for the old neon sign and pink stucco of El Gallo. Inside, the friendly greetings, the low lighting, and the décor make you feel right at home. The inviting aromas of simmering sauces and sizzling meats make you feel like indulging yourself.

The Kennedy family has successfully owned and operated their old-school Mexican cocina on South Congress Avenue since 1956, and there are two reasons why: tasty old-time Mexican favorites and an atmosphere that is clean, friendly, and inviting. Whether you want to sit in the cool subdued lighting of the main dining area, have cocktails by the fountain wall out on the patio, or throw a serious fiesta in the banquet room, El Gallo is the place.

I was led past the banquet room, which is heavily stylized with sweeping Mexican frescoes framed in bricked arches. When offered my choice of seating, I opted for the patio: well lit, but with plenty of shade. Edward Esquivel, the waiter, quickly brought out the three items that make all the difference at a good Mexican restaurant: the salsa, fresh chips and, of course, the margarita. The salsa was chunky red tomatoes with aromatic herbs and a healthy bite to it. The chips were golden, and the margarita, a delicious handmade one, was a subtle yellow-green color. A beautiful trio.

A good restaurant staff always knows what to recommend, and my waiter was up to the task. After a brief interview, he recommended the carnitas, marinated seasoned pork, which is a traditional Mexican staple. As usual, I brought friends along so I wouldn't have to decide on just one dish. For them, Mr. Esquivel recommended the chicken fajitas and a specially prepared half-and-half plate of alambres, steak kabobs, and brocheta de camaron, shrimp kabobs. The kabobs were fabulous - tender, marinated steak and shrimp with bacon, onions and peppers. The fajitas were marinated to perfection, and a little spicier than your average fajitas which made it time for another margarita - I love how that worked out! The carnitas were definitely the star of the show: pull-apart tender, spicy, and aromatic with a hint of sweet succulence.

We decided to move into the seriously sweet phase of the evening, and here's a hint: if you're planning on getting dessert, don't plan on driving for a while. The Caramel Cheesecake is the stuff of dreams, and may well give you that last gentle nudge into Sleepyland.

In recent years, Texas has been overrun by restaurants that serve Neo-Mexi-Cali-Tex food. There are times and places for all that Mexican cuisine, surely; but if today, you want some good ol' Mexican food, get hip to this timely tip: gas up the Chevy, head down Congress and see why “El Gallo es especial.”